I have Ron Aylor to thank for this one. I was fascinated when I first saw Roy Underhill make the Roubo book stand and ever since have wanted to make one. Ron's post showed that you can adapt the idea to make smaller versions to use as a phone stand. You can see how Ron did it in the linked post. My method is mostly the same.
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Prototype version |
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How it looks with phone |
I started with a prototype to learn about any pitfalls so I could make fewer mistakes on the real thing. One thing had to do with allowance for a power cord. In the next pic, you see the 3/8" wide slot for a power cord that goes almost back to the knuckle.
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Slot for power cord |
Two things are important here. First, the slot should lead to a connection with the knuckle. In this pic, the shelf that the phone rests on is connected to the 1st, 3rd and 5th knuckles. If I had laid it out so the 3rd knuckle was attached to the upright portion, there would be virtually no support for the wood at the back of the power cord slot. Even so, there is very little material connecting that middle knuckle to the front ledge. And that brings me to the second thing: for future pieces, I made the middle knuckle much wider than the rest.
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Side view of the phone stand |
Oh, yeah, there was a third thing I learned making this one. I wanted the knuckles to be round in cross section, like in the picture above. But when chiseling out the material for the knuckles prior to sawing the blank apart, I couldn't get deep enough. I don't own any thin paring chisels and my regular bench chisels couldn't get deep enough while keeping the round shape. On this prototype, I ended up breaking and splitting some wood to get it to open up.
So here's the story on making the real things.
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9-10" long x 3 1/4" wide x 3/4-13/16" thick blank. Lay out the knuckles. This pic looks like I've laid out 6 knuckles, but there are only 5 - the middle one is much wider than the rest. |
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About 3-3 1/2" from the bottom, lay out the knuckles, including the cross section circle on the edge as a guide. |
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Knife lines at the base of each knuckle. Drill 1/16" through holes at each corner. |
I don't have a coping saw blade small enough to fit in the 1/16" holes, so I used the trick from Roy's show. I made a little saw from a hacksaw blade and some scrap wood. The piece of blade has a pointy end that can get inside the 1/16" holes - just barely.
Very nice, I cannot find enough courage to try the same!
ReplyDeleteNow you apply the pattern to some cabinet doors, but what a rip cut it would be! 😄
Yeah, I think the rip cut on a full size book stand would be a different story from these small phone stands. One of these days I might try that.
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