|1" poplar for the top, 3/4" poplar for carcase and drawer fronts, 1/2" soft maple for drawer sides and backs|
|Sides are 19" x 24", bottom 18" x 24"|
|Using a 12" combo square along with a 24" straightedge to knife a line cross-grain|
|Note the clever use of waste basket and wood spacers to support the panel for planing the end grain|
The first order of business with these three panels was to cut rabbets on the back edge of each piece. I'm planning to use 3/4" material to create the frame-and-panel back, so I need 3/4" wide rabbets to fully recess the back into the carcase. I'll sink the rabbets 3/8".
|Rabbets laid out|
Because I've not had great success at cutting rabbets that don't go past the layout line, I scored another line about 1/16" from the "real" line. I'll use that new line to guide the rabbet plane that I recently built. When the rabbet is sunk to 3/8", I'll turn the plane on its side and plane back to the original width line.
|Pencil points to the second gauge line|
I start the rabbet by placing the corner of the plane in the gauge line and taking a few shavings.
|Angling the rabbet plane to take a tiny shaving at the second gauge line|
Then I take another shaving and another, gradually lowering the plane's angle until it's perpendicular to the surface. By this time, there is a small "wall" to keep me from going past the layout line. I still don't get a perpendicular rabbet wall, so I have to fix that by removing waste in the corner of the rabbet using a chisel and/or the rabbet plane on its side.
|Working the rabbet|
By going carefully and checking with a square, I got nice square rabbets without going past the layout lines. I used the rabbet plane I made and also a D. R. Barton skewed rabbet plane that I bought and rehabbed Sept., 2018.
|A completed rabbet|
|Side view - nice and square|
Next up: dovetails.