It has been less than a year since I built my jack plane. The thing works like a champ and I love using it.
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| The jack plane as built, back in February |
The tote was made from two pieces of red alder laminated together. It was shaped and then was mortised into the body. As I was using it last Thursday, the tote broke off very close to the surface of the plane body.
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| Arrgh!!!! |
It was a fairly clean break, so applied glue to both surfaces and clamped it together using two large bands that I use at the gym for my knee physical therapy exercises.
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| Unusual clamping technique |
Here it is after the glue had dried. You can still see the break line where the handle curves into the "tenon" part of the tote.
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| See the crack line? |
After a small amount of filing, the surface was smooth. I'll try it out this week and hope for the best.
This has me wondering: is there a better grain orientation for wooden plane totes? I had it oriented parallel to the sole, so it's a fairly obvious week point for a plane that gets some hard use.
Couldn't you use a crook from a tree branch? I have made spoons, adze handles, coat hangers, even roof gutter hangers from the various species and sizes.
ReplyDeleteIt seems to me the strongest orientation is when the branch forms the handle and the foot section is from the trunk, but I guess you could reverse that if you have difficulties finding properly shaped branches.
Even though you have to whittle s large branch down to get the shape you want, my experience is that even though there is significant runout grain, it is still a massively strong entity, because the grain between trunk and branch interlocks. In effect, the flexion that occurs when you press the tool forward is constantly kept in check by the interlocking grain at the base, rather than creating stress along the grain.
Kind regards
Henrik
Thank you for the thoughtful response, Henrik. I've never worked with branch or crook wood and think it would be remarkable to find a branch with just the right curves for a plane tote. There are two tight curves.
DeleteHenrik comments made a lot of sense, however I do not think that commercial plane makers used that method. Yes, there is a way to orient the grain on the handle shape, but in the end, your weakest point may had been simply the wood species used. Traditionally exotics like Rosewood, or domestic woods like Beech were used for most totes.
ReplyDeleteBob, still unpacking boxes...it never seems to end :-)
Thanks, Bob. I used red alder because that's what I had. It seems to be wearing OK on the plane sole, but maybe the wrong choice for the tote. I recall that the Lee Valley plane tote templates show a grain orientation that descends when you go from back to front of the tote. Maybe that would help.
DeleteIndeed I saw some old jack plane where a branch was used for the tote.
ReplyDeleteAnyway that is a very nice plane even with repaired tote :)
Lionel
Thanks, Lionel. I'll see soon how the re-glued tote holds up and will report if anything happens.
Delete"The tote was made from two pieces of red alder laminated together"
ReplyDeleteIf you make a tote with multiple pieces laminated together, why not cross the grain like in plywood.
Personally, if I had to replace a tote I would probably use plywood.
Sylvain
Well, that's interesting Sylvain. If I do have to replace the tote, maybe I'll try that. Regarding the plywood, that's a thought, but I don't care for that look. Also, any plywood I have is under 3/4" thick (which is a bit to thin for me) and I'd have to get something a bit thicker.
DeleteDitto on what Sylvain said. I wouldn't use store bought plywood but rather I would make my own.
ReplyDeleteI might just do that if the glued tote doesn't hold up.
DeleteAt the back of the handle you have a cut so that the oval shape is sitting over the body of the plane. This creates a stress concentration and unfavorably changes the leverage on the attachment of the tote.
ReplyDeleteTake a look at the plans from Caleb James. They show a full support under the tote. I have also seen where the rear of the handle is dovetailed into the body and the front has a screw to allow the handle to be replaced down the line.
https://calebjamesmaker.com/free-plans/
Good eye, Steve. I used a technique for the back end of the tote that I learned from Richard McGuire. I have Caleb James' plans for his jack plane. If the glue job doesn't hold up, perhaps I'll drill out the old tote and extend the mortise towards the rear to fit a fully supported tote. Thanks for the suggestions.
DeleteI prefer closed handles/totes. This makes for two points of support in the weak shearing direction. I think it should work pretty well for a weak wood such as alder. Though if I were you, I'd worry more about wear on the sole and cracking the wedged part of the throat.
ReplyDeleteSome people with ginormous hands don't like the closed totes, though.
Thanks for the response, Brian. For my other plane, a 22" fore plane, I made a closed tote and I like it a lot. If this glue job fails, I may see if there is enough room for me to change it to that style. I did use the re-glued plane today and it performed fine so far. But time will tell ...
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