For several years now, if I needed to route a dado or groove that was less then 1/4" wide, I used a makeshift router plane. This was nothing more than a block of wood with a 45-ish degree angle on the front end, a 1/8" groove cut into that angled front, and a 1/8" chisel clamped into the groove.
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My original small "router plane" |
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The clamp block holding the chisel in place is a piece of wood screwed to the main block |
While this worked well during the infrequent times that I needed it, I always thought it would be nice to have a dedicated tool. So recently I did something about it.
For the blade, I used an old 5/32" Allen wrench. The 5/32" dimension is flat to flat, and the dimension from apex to opposite apex is close to 3/16". The short leg of an Allen wrench has one flat face facing up when standing like an "L", so the 3/16" dimension is horizontal, and that becomes the width of the cutting edge after some filing, grinding and sharpening.
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The Allen wrench in cross section |
I heated the 90 degree bend to red hot and bent it to more like a 100 degree angle. This gives a "clearance angle"; it allows the blade to cut a dado without the heel of the blade rubbing on the bottom of the dado.
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This shows the approx. 100 deg angle on the Allen wrench |
One major concern was about how to hold the blade. I got a 1/4-20 bolt and tried to drill a hole through it. Nothing doing! That bolt must have been some sort of specialty bolt, as it was as hard as kryptonite. I annealed it and it was still way too hard to drill. So I got another bolt and that one was far easier to drill, though I found out the 1/4" bolt was too small for a 3/16" hole and I had to go with a 5/16-18 bolt instead.
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Punching a center point into the insanely hard bolt |
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Successful 3/16" hole in a 5/16-18 bolt |
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Here's how it'll work: Allen key through the hole in the bolt, nut at rear of the wood block tightens the Allen key to the wood body |
I grabbed a chunk of scrap from the bin that just happened to have a 1 1/8" hole bored through it. About 2/3rds the way up from the bottom of the block, I drilled a 5/16" hole through the back and into the larger hole of the block. The 5/16" bolt was inserted and a washer and nut placed on the back end.
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Also made a groove where the cutter will rest as a sort of "bed" |
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Made two thumb holes in the back end for a better grip |
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Then made a large bevel on the top surface (as seen from the right end) |
The plane's body is 4" wide, 1 1/8" tall and just over 2 1/8" front-to-back.
Shaping and sharpening the iron was not too tough, but it was tedious. I filed or ground a flat on the bottom, then filed a bevel on the top. The diamond plates were used to refine the surfaces and get a nice edge.
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Dragging the bottom flat backward on the diamond plate |
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And sharpening the bevel. This took a lot of patience. |
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But I got a good smooth surface on the bevel ... |
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... and the bottom flat |
I finally got a wingnut to tighten the iron in the body - a nice upgrade from a hex nut and wrench to tighten. A nice project - I'm looking forward to using it when the need arises.
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In use cutting a ~3/16" dado |
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Glamour shot |
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Back view showing wingnut |
And lastly, I made two more smaller irons - one about 7/64" wide and one about 5/64" wide. It was a challenge sharpening these tiny irons, but they all came out great and work well.
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Three small Allen keys became router plane blades |
All for now. Hopefully I'll get back in the flow soon and post more often. I've been in a woodworking slump for the last couple of months.
Nice little project.
ReplyDeleteAnd a great idea to use Allen keys for blades.
Brgds Jonas
Wonderful project. Thanks for sharing. I have a tip that may help you in the future when you need to sharpen these. Sharpening on the bevel side is difficult for most router plane blades. What I do is sharpen on the bottom side driving the burr to the bevel side. It's opposite of how we normally sharpen say a chisel but in this case, it works well and is easy to do. Sincerely, Joe Leonetti.
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