Last post I had settled on a design and completed the stock prep. This week was about getting parts to the right size and cutting joints.
I'll start off with a tip for an awkward sawing situation. When cutting to length, the back overhung the bench by several inches (because I was too lazy to lower the back adjustable lip of my bench). I needed to saw off about a half inch and the overhang leads to vibration. So I clamped a thick stick of wood near the cut line and sawed away. The stick removed the vibration and made the cut easy.
|Cutting to length with no vibration|
On to the joinery. The side pieces get a stopped dado that will house the shelf, and a rabbet along the rear edge to fit the back. The 3/8" deep dado was chopped out with a chisel and its bottom smoothed with a router plane. After marking the extents of the rabbet with a marking gauge, the 3/8" deep, 1/2" wide rabbet was planed with a homemade 3/4" rabbet plane and an old D.R. Barton skew rabbet plane.
|Stopped dadoes in the yet-to-be-shaped sides|
|The rabbet cut along the rear edge|
The shelf had two through dadoes cut into it that will house the dividers.
|One divider fit into its dado in the shelf|
At this point I could partially assemble the coat rack. Normally I like to minimize the use of metal fasteners in my projects, but I decided to add screws through the back to hold the vertical dividers as well as the shelf. I also added screws on the underside of the shelf into each divider.
|The back screwed to vertical dividers and shelf|
|View from the front (dividers were later cut flush with the front of the shelf)|
Next, I glued on a small lip to the front of the shelf. This will keep things on the shelf from falling out.
|Gluing on the lip|
Last thing for this update was shaping the sides. I had made a template from some thick paper and transferred the shape to the sides. The shape was cut out with a coping saw. I've seen people use a two handed grip on the handle, but I like to use one hand on the handle and one on the far end of the saw. It helps me keep the saw stable, level and straight.
When I sawed out the shape for the dividers, I cut away from the lines and pared back to them using an incannel gouge. But for the sides, I cut closer to the lines, then used rasps, files and a scraper to smooth the curves.
|Starting the curve cut with coping saw|
|Smoothing the curve with a sharp scraper|
This project is in the home stretch. I need to glue a top piece to the upper edge of the back, then assemble the whole thing and add some shellac. We just ordered a couple extra hooks on which we'll hang some things other than coats - keys, purse, etc. Hopefully they'll look OK with the current hooks. I'll report back next time.