Thursday, November 26, 2020

Vise Maintenance, Redux

Happy Thanksgiving to all you woodies out there.

Back in January, I wrote a post about maintaining your vise.  I had cleaned up the half nut and everything else I could access and it seemed to work OK.  But I didn't pull the fixed jaw off the vise.   Since that time, I've had further issues with the Record #53E, where it is difficult to pull the front jaw out or push it in.  So I pulled it off the bench and this time I removed the fixed jaw.

The vise disassembled

The two guide bars slide through holes in the fixed jaw.  They are a not supposed to be a tight fit.  But over the months, sawdust and 3-in-1 oil have combined to clog up what space there is between the bars and the holes in the jaw.

Some gunk partially removed

Over time, I would occasionally put a little 3-in-1 oil on the guide bars to help them slide better.  But I'm thinking that's not the best choice, as sawdust will readily mix with the oil and gum up the works.  If anybody cares to comment, I would be interested in knowing a better lubricant for this application.  What might woodworkers have used years ago?  Today, I thoroughly cleaned up the holes and the guide bars and then waxed the guide bars.

Guide bars getting waxed

While I had it apart, the half nut needed a little cleaning, and that was done with a dental tool and brass wire brush.

Nice!

Here's a trick I learned somewhere that I love!  This vise is heavy and I'm not getting any younger.  To remove and reinstall the vise, I clamp an L-shaped piece in the jaw so that the longer end can rest on the benchtop.

L-shaped piece clamped in vise

This makes it MUCH easier to handle the vise.  Before reinstalling the vise, clamp the L-shaped piece in the jaws, rest the long leg of the piece on the workbench, and the vise is self-supporting.

Look ma, no bolts

That's it.  The vise is working beautifully now.  I just didn't go far enough back in January.  Lesson learned.  Again, if anybody knows of a better lubricant for the guide bars (as well as the half-nut), please let me know.

11 comments:

  1. Matt,

    I've had my English QR vises stored for several years but if I remember correctly dry silicone spray works well. You can get it at any auto parts house.

    The 'L" is a great idea, those suckers are heavy and hard to keep in place while R&R'ing.

    ken

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    1. OK, thanks for the recommendation, Ken. Haven't heard you 'round these parts for a while. Hope all is well!

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  2. Paste wax would be my first choice. Not beeswax applied in crayon method.

    I avoid silicone sprays for anything. It makes finishing a problem in wood and autos.

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    1. Thanks, Steve. I'll see how well the paste wax that I used holds up. Should be better than the 3-in-1 oil ...

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  3. You might want to try Boe-lube . They make a spray that doesn't attract dust and doesn't leave a silicon film that can cause fisheye if it gets on your work piece. It is T9-Boeshield , sold at Amazon

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  4. Any dry lubricant. I use a graphite based one.

    Bob, whose car went kaput :-(

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    1. OK, thanks Bob. Bummer about the car - mine, too. I've gotta get a new one and not sure what to do about it.

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  5. I have been learning a lot about car engines lately. Mine had the Ford V6 Duratec with the stupid water pump inside the block driven by the timing chain. When the pump seized it seized the engine without any warning. Found out that the estimate life span of my engine was 300,000 kms, I drove problem free for 316,734 kns and it self destruct :-( I had no idea it was about to self destruct :-(

    Lets just say I am in no rush to buy another, we have a small car for city driving Chevy Spark, but need something comfy for long distance travelling, hence why I had a Lincoln. With the current situation, not doing much driving lately. Looking at SUV also, probably another Lincoln

    Bob

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    1. I have 223,000 miles on my '99 Subaru - that's about 350,000 km. So can't complain about the longevity. Lately too many things are going wrong with it. Time to make a change.

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  6. If buying another Subaru stay away from their 6 cylinder boxer engine. Too many problems and yes, chain driven water pump :-(
    The good old 4 cyl Boxer does not have those problems.

    Bob

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