Thursday, March 12, 2020

J. Pearce Wooden Smoothing Plane

At a recent tool auction during a meeting of my local tool collectors organization, I bid on and won a box of four wooden planes.  One of them was this little coffin smoother, stamped J. Pearce, of New York.
Pearce Smoother
The toe, showing "maker" name and model no. 108
From what information I could find on the internet, J. Pearce was not a manufacturer but was a hardware store brand name used by H. Chapin.  The iron is stamped "The Chapin Stephens Co."  Other J. Pearce planes I've seen on internet sites have had Chapin Stephens irons, so I suspect this iron is original to the plane.  Some information on a Sawmill Creek thread indicates the plane probably dates from 1901-1929.

Here are some details:

Length: 8"
Width: 2 5/8" at mouth, ~ 1 13/16" at toe, ~ 1 1/2" at heel
Height: 2 3/8" (likely it was 2 1/2" or thereabouts when new)
Toe to bed line distance: 2 3/4"
Bed angle: ~ 47°
Breast angle: ~ 101° (though upper inch or so has been widened with poorly executed chiseling)
Wear angle: no wear - the breast goes all the way to the mouth opening

Strike button diameter: 11/16"
Strike button location: centered laterally, 7/8" from toe (roughly centered between toe and throat)

Wedge dimensions: 4 7/8" long x 2 1/16" wide x ~11/16" thick

Iron mfg: The Chapin Stephens Co., Pine Meadow, Conn, U.S.A.
Iron width: 2" (at cutting edge; 1/32" narrower at back end)
Iron length: 7 3/4"
Iron taper: 7/32" thick behind bevel to 3/32" at rear
Iron construction: steel laminated to iron base

Some pictures of its condition follow.
The heel had some large checks, the lower one caused the sole to be way out of flat
I read that this line of planes was mass-produced and a "second line" of Chapin's planes.  It may have used wood that was not top quality or not properly dried.  The billet this plane came from was not quartersawn, but riftsawn, with center of the tree to the upper right corner of the plane (looking from the rear).
There is a large crack on the right side where abutment recess meets rear plane body
With wedge and iron removed, you can see that crack from the inside
Picture from behind looking forward - note how asymmetrical the abutments are.
You can also see the hack job on the breast surface.
Whether that hack job is evidence of the "second line" status of these planes or was a user modification is unknown.

Finally, note how the abutment recesses have been hollowed out, presumably by thousands of removals and insertions of the iron.
See the gap under the ruler?  Both sides showed similar wear.
Just a couple notes about the iron and cap-iron.  There was a fair amount of rust and corrosion on the iron and I'll get into that next time.
Bevel side of iron
The Chapin Stephens Co., Pine Meadow, Conn., U.S.A.
Iron and cap-iron in profile
The threaded hole of the cap-iron had a raised, threaded portion on the side that mates with the iron.  It seems to me I've seen a raised brass area on the opposite side of old cap irons to increase the thread length.  Perhaps this one is a newer design.  It fits within the iron's slot and is not raised much, so it doesn't get in the way of tightening the screw.
Cap-iron below the iron, with raised threaded portion sticking into slot of the iron
Next time I'll write about cleaning and refurbishing the plane.  I've also built my own version of the plane and that will be the subject of another post.

10 comments:

  1. Replies
    1. OK, Ralph - coming soon to a blog post near you ... (next week).

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  2. My only concerns with that plane would be the blown abutment on one side. Crazy glue??
    The raised portion of the nut, probably a piece of brass welded to the cap iron, is typical of older irons.
    Gotta love the thickness of that tapered iron. To me the price of the plane you p[aid is worth the iron alone

    Bob

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    1. Hi Bob, pardon the delayed response - we were out of internet range for a while.

      I was able to glue the big crack - I used regular white PVA glue, but I'll have to see if it holds. And I totally agree about the price of the plane - the iron was worth more than the entire plane, even if it was badly pitted. I was able to get it into better condition, as I'll post about next time.

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  3. The cracks are probably due to the body being very dry and damages from repeated blown from a hammer to adjust it.
    When you clean the body (I used Murphy oil soap) some of the smaller cracks will probably close up. The remainder or larger ones, I would soak in crazy glue

    Bob, out of commission for a while, torn muscle

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    Replies
    1. Ooh, sorry about the torn muscle. It sucks getting older ...

      After cleaning the body with a rag soaked in turpentine, I gave a couple very thorough coats of BLO. The plane soaked that stuff up like a desert traveler drinking from an oasis.
      The cracks don't look quite as bad now and the plane looks a lot better.

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  4. Matt,

    Good show and tell. I'll be interested to see if you can turn it into a user. My first thought would be to clean it up and put it on a shelf but often my first impulse is wrong :-). BTW, the cause of that impulse is likely because I have two modern coffin smothers and a couple of shop made smothers that are great tools.

    ken

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    Replies
    1. Ken, I doubt whether this plane will become a user. I've made some shavings, but the mouth is quite large so I don't think it'll do well on many woods. Well-behaved pine or poplar will probably be fine. I did think briefly about fitting a patch to tighten up the mouth, but that was more than I was looking to do on this one.

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  5. How does the throat look? If it is wide open you can make it into a scrub plane. I guess with the cancellation of the PAST show, I won't see you. Hopefully at the next one.

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    Replies
    1. Hi Dennis. Good to hear from you and thanks for checking in. Bummer about the Spring PAST show - maybe Summer in Sonoma.

      The mouth of this plane is pretty wide open, so it might not perform too well as a smoother on some woods. But I don't really need a scrub plane. I've been using it as a model to make my own smoothers and I'll post about them soon.

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