I squared up a 2" thick piece of poplar, marked a location on top and bottom and bored a 1/2" hole.
|I had drawn (poorly) several concentric circles before boring the hole.|
Note the vertical reference line - there's one on back, too.
|I had run the reamer a little more than needed - the far end was reamed to 11/16"|
and the large end just under 15/16" diameter
|Didn't get any photos, thought I'd try describing with a Sketchup model.|
The lower left triangle gets sawn out. I sawed an extra 1/4" to the right of the
vertical reference line to add an "escapement".
|Here's how the blade gets clamped to the tenon cutter|
|A closer pic from a different angle showing where to set the iron|
|Ready to test the cutter with a 7/8" poplar dowel|
|Making tapered tenon shavings|
I tried the tapered tenon in a hole that I had bored and reamed.
|Nice and tight in the large end ...|
|... but a little loose in the small end|
|So I modified very slightly the bed of the cutter to remove a little more from the large end of the tenon|
Just a note: this is probably very obvious to most of you, but I hadn't thought it through until I made these things. You'll need different tapered tenon cutters for various diameters of spindle stock being tenoned. For example, the thicker legs of a chair might be 1" diameter at the start of the taper, whereas the spindles for the back of a chair might be 5/8" at the start of the tenon. They'll need separate tenon cutters, even though the same reamer can be used for both sizes. So far I've made two tenon cutters - one for 7/8" dowel stock and another for 1 1/8" stock.
Another note: The YouTube channel "Pask Makes" has a couple excellent videos on making a tapered reamer and tapered tenoner. Much of my method came from those videos.