I did one more practice mitered bridle joint before cutting into the "real" wood.
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Practice mitered bridle joint |
The practice joint came out fine. Sellers espouses the use of a guide that helps pare the mortise walls to the exact thickness to fit the tenon. But I've had no success with that method. Making the guide is a cinch, but I can't seem to pare properly when using it, so I've been paring the mortise walls by hand.
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Here's the left stile with mortise cut and miter ready to be cut |
The guide lines from the marking gauge really help paring to proper width. On one joint, I tried using the Sellers guide and ended up with a very loose joint.
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Joint was very loose, fitting 3-4 thicknesses of paper. That doesn't sound like much, but it was WAY too loose |
I could have thrown out the stile or rail and made new ones, but I glued on a couple scrap pieces to the tenoned rail and then carefully pared the tenon to fit the mortise.
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Pieces glued onto the tenon |
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Then pared down to a good fit in the mortise |
After the door joinery was done, I used a 1/4" beading plane to bead the inner edge of all parts. The back of the door needed a rabbet to hold the glass and because of the design, these had to be stopped rabbets. These are fairly easy with chisels and mallet, but quite a bit more time consuming than through rabbets. Fun, though.
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My chisel grip |
I hardly ever need to grip my chisels like this, but it really worked out for me here. There's a lot I can learn about economical chisel work and proper gripping is one area where I can do better.
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With this grip, I was able to place the chisel quickly and accurately |
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And after a few chops you get a feel for how many hammer blows will get you close to the line |
This wood worked easily and the chopping was no exception. The picture above really shows how the wood breaks apart for easy clean-up.
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Paring to the gauge line with a nice wide chisel |
After assembling the joint the corners needed a little extra work to clean them up and get lines to meet.
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A corner cleaned up |
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Then I glued up the door and let it sit overnight |
I just ordered the glass for the project, so I could fit the glass and make the little pieces that will keep the glass in place. The door and sides both need these little pieces that I plan to nail in place.
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Fitting the 1/4" x 5/16" strips that keep the glass in place |
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Here are the strips dry-fitted to the two sides |
I'm just about ready to glue up. I'm going to pre-finish some pieces that will be tough to finish with the glass in place.
Somewhere I made a mistake and the carcase is not perfectly square. I think I know how I'm going to deal with it, but I might have to plane the edges of the door out of square to match the carcase. More on that later.
I found using Sellers thing-a-ma-bob tricky, especially so the two wedge one. He uses one now.
ReplyDeleteThe stopped rabbet looks awfully good.
Thanks, Ralph. At least I know it's not just me.
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