The design that I've worked up for this small cabinet includes sides that house glass.
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Sketchup rendition of the cabinet |
There were a few things to consider with the sides. First, since the door would have a bead on its inside edges, I thought it would be nice for the sides to match that feature. Second, the sides will be housed in stopped dadoes in the top and bottom. This second item made me think about how to construct the sides. At first I wanted the sides to mimic the door construction, using mitered bridle joints at the corners. But I thought about grain direction and thought there could be problems if the bottom and top rails were housed cross-grain in the dadoes. It probably wouldn't have mattered in the ~4" span of the joint, but I decided to make the side panel as a glue-up.
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Each of the two side panels was glued up from four pieces, all with grain running the same direction |
With the side panels glued up like this, I could glue in small beading strips. To make them, I first ran a 3/16" beading plane on a piece of stock.
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Ran the bead |
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Cut off the beaded strip and planed the sawn surface |
I planed the strip down so that the quirk was just revealed. Not sure how better to say that, so see the pictures.
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Then cut the bead to just over 5/16" depth |
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And CAREFULLY planed the sawn surface with the plane upside down in the vise |
I used a 45° bench hook to cut the miters and cleaned up on a shooting board.
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Sawing the miter |
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Shooting it to an accurate 45° |
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First two pieces fitted |
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Glued in two stages: first glued in three sides, later added the fourth side (shown here) |
I'm very happy with how they came out. I know the short strips are glued in cross-grain, but it's only about 2", so I'm not too concerned about it.
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One side's beading complete. |
The applied bead creates the rabbet on the back side that will house the glass. And I'll use the thin strip off-cuts from creating the beads to capture the glass when the time comes.
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The back side showing the rabbet |
Next I need to mill up the top and bottom, chop the dadoes and fit the sides. Until then ...
Good looking design, and impressive saw work ripping the beading with a panel saw.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the comment, Jeff. My main rip saw is a 4.5 tpi 26" Pax saw and I used that to cut through the 3/4" thickness. But for the second cut through the 5/16+" beaded part, I used a 10 tpi handsaw. I hardly ever need the 10 tpi saw - it doesn't cut well through 3/4" or thicker stock, but it was nice to have for the thin material.
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