I had never done stopped chamfers before. The chamfers would start about 1" up from the bottom and end about 2 1/2" from the top. I made a small knife line 1/2" from these starting points and penciled in the shape to be removed.
|Chamfer laid out|
|Sawed a small kerf as a stop cut|
|Removed bulk of waste with a chisel|
|Then smoothed with a spokeshave and a no. 4 smoother|
|Got right up to the stop cut with a shoulder plane that has a removable toe|
|Chiseling the curved lead-in until the curve meets the flat part seamlessly|
|Very happy with this transition|
|And a more straight-on view|
|Bead on one of the short rails|
|Planing goes from right to left, but see how the grain is diving?|
|A close view of the gauge line|
|Arrow points to the crisp edge I'm talking about|
|Lower stretcher has a concave bottom edge.|
Bead was made using a scratch stock.
|The scratch stock|
|Close-up of the cutter|
After all shaping was done, I focused on the top. I planed a bullnose shape on all edges of each board. To line up the top slats for installation, I turned the undercarriage upside down on the bench and got creative with a holdfast to clamp things in place.
|Top slats being marked for location and screw holes|
For finishing, I first applied three coats of shellac, sanding after each coat had dried. Then, to give the plant stands greater resistance to the effects of rain (and sun?), I applied a few coats of polyurethane.
And here they are in service outside the kitchen windows.