Make that a few problems. Last post I described getting the skates in line with each other. Well, after plowing my test groove with the 1/2" iron, the rear skate was out of alignment again.
|Front of rear skate (right) lifted|
|Arrow points to the gap|
I have to think about what to do about this, but if anybody cares to comment, I"m open for suggestions. I'm thinking I have two options: allow the skate to lift and from that position file it down to be even with the front skate (don't like this idea at all), or plug and re-drill the screw holes to make the skate more snug in its groove in the plane body.
UPDATE: I had failed to tighten the skate screws all the way down. The screws are a little off center in the direction that should pull the skate into its groove, so I hope this is all I needed. We'll see.
|Screw holes are a little off center from the skate's countersunk holes,|
which should pull the skate upward
The front of the rear skate is in line with the plane body's bed angle. The lower front of it extends about 1/16" further than the upper front portion and is filed to a point so that the groove in the back of the irons can mate with it.
|Portion of skate filed to a point - a little proud of the rest of the front of the skate|
|The point filed on the front of the rear skate|
|Backs of the irons showing the groove that mates with the skate|
|Tip of rear skate just visible - it's just proud of the rear wall of the mortise|
Regarding the irons I purchased, the jury is out.
|My original 1/2" iron at top, and new (to me) irons in box|
|#1 iron by Dwights French & Co. should be 1/8", but is 11/64", way oversize!!|
|#2 iron by Wm. Ash & Co. should be 3/16", but is 13/64"|
|#3 iron by Peugeot Freres should be 1/4" and is more than 1/64" oversize|
|#4 by Meaney (or maybe Heaney, or Beaney?) & Wood should be 5/16" and is 1/64" oversize|
|#5 iron by James Cam is close to right size at a strong 3/8"|
Here are the irons from the back end, highlighting how different they are.
|All very different: #5, 4, 3, 2, 1 and my #7|
|Blurry pic of back ends in profile. How are you supposed to strike the thin ones to advance the iron?|
#2 iron is already folded over (see individual pic above)
|The business ends - some different shapes|
|The grooves - all very different again|
Regarding the irons, I've got so many questions!
- How well does the groove need to fit the point of the skate?
- Should the tapered length of the irons be perfectly flat on back and front (grooved side) to mate with the plane bed and wedge? I thought I read somewhere that the tapered length is typically concave on the grooved side. If this is true, then why?
|Bevel (grooved) side is a little concave|
|Back is fairly straight, but not exactly|
(Man, is it tough getting decent photos of this!)
- As a tapered iron wears down, it gets thinner, meaning the wedge will sit lower in the plane. This wedge has a groove to match with the plane body to eject shavings. Does this matter?
|This little curve at bottom of wedge is already lower than the matching curve in the plane body|
Garret Hack's excellent book, "The Hand Plane Book" doesn't give specific information about my questions. I don't know where to find the answers, even after searching the internet. I wish there was somebody to talk to about this stuff, but this knowledge is rapidly being lost.
BTW, just to record this somewhere, My 1/2" iron's cutting width is dead-on 1/2" (0.498") and it is a little narrower at the grooved side for clearance in the cut. At its thickest point (where the bevel starts), the iron is just shy of 5/16" thick (0.309"), three inches back from there it is just under 1/4" (0.242") thick and 3 more inches back it is about 3/16" (0.185"). A little trig gives a taper angle of 1.2°.