Now to our regularly scheduled blog ...
Recently, I wrote about the 8" J. Pearce smoothing plane that I bought at an auction. I'd been wanting to make a wooden smoother and finally I had something to use as a model.
|J. Pearce model|
|Prototype smoother near completion - poplar with maple sole|
I took most of the key measurements from the J. Pearce smoother. The prototype used the 2" Chapin-Stephens iron and cap-iron that came with the Pearce plane. The final plane used a 2 1/8" Buck Brothers iron and cap-iron that I got at a tool show. I made this plane slightly wider and longer than the prototype and the measurements I present in this post will be from the final plane build.
The first thing to do is to square up an over-length plane blank, 9 1/2" x 2 11/16" wide x 2 1/2" tall. I made as reference surfaces the sole and the left side, and made sure the grain of the sole was descending from toe to heel. After marking out the overall 8 1/8" length with knife lines on the sole, I marked the rear aspect of the mouth (where the bed meets the sole) 2 7/8" back from the toe line. Starting from that line, on the side, mark the bed angle at about 47 1/2°, angling towards the heel.
|Showing bed line on sole (rear aspect of mouth) and bed angle on side.|
Also shows wear angle and breast angle, as well as abutment line.
|Bored from the top, using the layout lines on the side to guide the angles|
|Chiseled close to the lines|
|Here, the guide is clamped to the back end of the plane and the whole is clamped in the vise|
|Paring the bed on the final plane|
Once I was reasonably happy with the bed surface, I made a sanding block to smooth it further. The better this bed surface is now, the better the plane will turn out later.
|Making a sanding block to fit in the throat and smooth the bed|
|Sanding the bed smooth|
|And there's the initial excavation complete|
I'll continue next time with the abutments and further details.