Friday, September 29, 2017

Drawing An Ellipse

I'm in the process of making a few Sellers-inspired step stools and I'm making the tops elliptical.  I once read about a method of laying out an ellipse in Dennis Laney's excellent blog, so I thought I'd try it out.  Dennis outlines a few different methods - this is just one of them.  This method uses a set of trammel points, and I had just made myself a set a few months ago.

I started by drawing the major and minor axes on poster paper.  My ellipse was to have major diameter 15" and minor diameter 9".
Axes drawn longer than size of ellipse
I set the two trammel points to a distance of 4 1/2" and 7 1/2" from the pencil - these are half the ellipse diameters.
Setting the trammel pencil and the two points
Then got a piece of scrap with one square corner and laid that in one quadrant of the drawn axes.  I used some plywood that was thicker than my trammel pins are long.  That way, the edge of the trammel from which the pin protrudes (the wooden part) can ride on the edge of the board and the points won't dig into the poster paper.
Using a squared-up scrap to guide the trammel points
Then, while holding the scrap board down firmly, I run the two trammel points along the two squared edges of the scrap board (both trammel points must remain in contact with the board at all times), while dragging the pencil trammel on the paper.
Starting the ellipse - pencil point is right-most
Sliding the trammel points along the board, keeping both in contact with an edge
Finishing the first quarter of the ellipse
Then it's a simple matter of moving the scrap piece to the different quadrants and repeating that process.
Working the next section of ellipse ...
... and the third quadrant ...
... and the fourth
And here is the result - a very pleasing shape.
Completed ellipse
I'll use this as a template for laying out the tops of the stools.  More on that later.

10 comments:

  1. Works well with your framing square as the right angle.

    ( you have a framing square, right? )

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    1. Not sure how accurate my framing square is, but it probably doesn't matter too much as long as it's close to square. Thanks for the tip.

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  2. Ok I'll fess up. I had no idea what Trammell points were for until I read this. Thanks so much for sharing. Now I have to go read your post on making them.

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    1. And trammel points will do many more things. Probably the top one is marking out an arc, putting one pin as the pivot and the pencil on the arc end.

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  3. Very nice result Matt!

    But, if you ever misplace your beautiful trammel points, you can use two nails and a string. Like this:
    http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2013/09/06/drawing-an-ellipse-the-string-method/

    OTOH, there might be more use for trammel points than for string. :)

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    1. Hi Bob. I've seen that method, but read that it's a little sloppy (due to stretchy string, etc.), for lack of a better word. The method described above can be sloppy too, if you're not careful to keep the trammel points in contact with the square. I guess any method is only as good as how careful you are.

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  4. It's also called trammel of Archimedes. No surprise famous people get credited for many things.

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  5. Neat, but to me a simple jig with tracks at 90 degrees to each other, insert sliding blocks (use dovetail track and block so they stay inside track) with an arm attached to both, rotate and it will draw an ellipse. Change the lenght of the arm, ellipse size changes.

    Or then again my other method work great... Stress free :-)
    https://thevalleywoodworker.blogspot.ca/2015/05/figuring-sides-profile-of-my-saw-till.html
    Aspirins not included Hah!

    Bob, the jester

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    1. I'e seen both these methods. The string method I remember form childhood. But I've seen the 90° track method, too. That one works on the same principle as my trammel point method. Bottom line - whatever works!

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