In this series of posts, I'll discuss the rehabilitation of the smallest of them, a 3/16" beader by H. L. James that was made around 1854-1869.
|H. L. James 3/16" beading plane|
The manufacturer was not easy to figure out. All I could make out was
|If you squint, you can see the info I wrote above|
Notice I spelled Williamsburg here without a trailing 'h', whereas my plane has an 'h'. There is a town with the no-h spelling in Massachusetts, and it existed with this spelling in the 1800's. Ken says that in the mid 1800's spelling was a bit looser and that there are planes with either spelling.
Apparently, Henry L. James was a businessman who bought the plane making business of H. S. Wells in 1854 and managed it until it burned down in 1869.
On to the refurbishment. The first thing was to give the body and wedge a good cleaning, which I did with steel wool and mineral spirits.
|Before cleaning, showing grunge on the heel (former owner - M. Hart)|
|Interesting pattern on side of boxing strip|
|Paper shims on the boxing - original or added later?|
|Can also see paper in the boxing groove|
|Pulled this out of the groove|
The boxing thickness varied from 7/64" to 1/8", the thickest areas being at the profiled edge.
|Front boxing near toe|
|Rear boxing (right) much higher than front boxing|
|Big gap on left|
|Planed them straight and square on the shooting board|
|Sanding strip for groove bottom|
|Gluing a maple strip to the boxing - I know, not a great color match|
|Front boxing dry-fitted|
|Front and rear boxing with "shims" glued on|
Rear shim was mostly scraped off to get the right fit in its groove
I knew that I would want to glue the boxing back in place using hide glue, so I bought a small bottle of Patrick Edwards' liquid hide glue just for this. I used this glue to attach the shims to the boxing, so if I ever have to remove the boxing again, the shims will probably come loose when the boxing comes out.
My hide glue setup is like this: microwave about 2 cups of water in a Pyrex measuring cup. Place candy thermometer in cup to monitor temperature. With water temperature about 150°, place small plastic cup of hide glue in the water (it's under the wood block in the picture below). Placing a wood block on top lowers the plastic cup down into the hot water, but not so far that water gets into it. After a few minutes, the hide glue is about the right temperature to use.
|When you don't have a fancy glue pot, you've gotta make due|
|Shims looking kind of ugly|
Next time I'll post about shaping the sole and sharpening the iron.